• Science

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters


Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1139462520
Category: Science
Page: N.A
View: 2743
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

    • Science

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters


Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 9780521129954
Category: Science
Page: 404
View: 666
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

    • Science

Wind Waves

Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface
Author: Blair Kinsman
Publisher: Courier Corporation
ISBN: 9780486495118
Category: Science
Page: 676
View: 3688
Looks at wave theory, covering such topics as the nature of waves and wave processes, methods of measurement, and classifications.

    • Science

Ocean Surface Waves

Their Physics and Prediction
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810221096
Category: Science
Page: 491
View: 4534
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

    • Coastal engineering

Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Nonlinear aspects


Author: Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9812561587
Category: Coastal engineering
Page: 1071
View: 6160
This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

    • Science

The Ocean in Motion

Circulation, Waves, Polar Oceanography
Author: Manuel G. Velarde,Roman Yu. Tarakanov,Alexey V. Marchenko
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 3319719343
Category: Science
Page: 625
View: 5500
This book commemorates the 70th birthday of Eugene Morozov, the noted Russian observational oceanographer. It contains many contributions reflecting his fields of interest, including but not limited to tidal internal waves, ocean circulation, deep ocean currents, and Arctic oceanography. Special attention is paid to studies on internal waves and especially those on tidal internal waves in the Global Ocean. These papers describe the most important open problems concerning experimental studies of internal waves and their theoretical, numerical, and laboratory modeling. Further contributions investigate the physics of surface waves and their interaction with internal waves. Here, the focus is on describing interaction processes between internal waves and deep currents in the ocean, especially currents of Antarctic Bottom Water in abyssal fractures. They also touch on the problem of oceanic circulation and related processes in fjords, including those occurring under sea ice. Given its breadth of coverage, the book will appeal to anyone interested in a survey of ocean dynamics, ranging from historic perspectives to modern research topics.

    • Technology & Engineering

Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management


Author: J. William Kamphuis
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9789810244170
Category: Technology & Engineering
Page: 437
View: 435
This book is intended to be a text for undergraduate students of coastal engineering. It also serves as a reference for graduate students and practicing engineers, building on a basic foundation in coastal engineering. Finally, it is a guide for people in related disciplines. Coastal managers may use the book to cover the more theoretical and engineering-related aspects of their trade. Its subject matter is of interest to geographers, planners and coastal scientists alike.

    • Science

Ocean Waves

The Stochastic Approach
Author: Michel K. Ochi
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 9780521017671
Category: Science
Page: 319
View: 5017
Describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis - vital information for design and operation of ships.

    • Science

Handbook of Coastal and Ocean Engineering


Author: Young C. Kim
Publisher: World Scientific
ISBN: 9812819304
Category: Science
Page: 1163
View: 3704
This handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engineering. More than 70 internationally recognized authorities in the field of coastal and ocean engineering have contributed articles on their areas of expertise to this handbook. These international luminaries are from highly respected universities and renowned research and consulting organizations from all over the world. This handbook provides a comprehensive overview of shallow-water waves, water level fluctuations, coastal and offshore structures, port and harbors, coastal sediment processes, environmental problems, coastal hazards, physical modeling, and other issues in coastal and ocean engineering. It is an essential reference for professionals and researchers in the areas of coastal engineering, ocean engineering, oceanography, and meteorology, as well as an invaluable text for graduate students in these fields. Sample Chapter(s). Chapter 1: Wave Setup (2,255 KB). Chapter 2: Wavemaker Theories (607 KB). Contents: Shallow-Water Waves: Wave Setup (Robert G Dean and Todd L Walton ); Wavemaker Theories ( Robert T Hudspeth and Ronald B Guenther ); Analyses by the Melnikov Method of Damped Parametrically Excited Cross Waves (Ronald B Guenther and Robert T Hudspeth); Random Wave Breaking and Nonlinearity Evolution Across the Surf Zone (Yoshimi Goda); Aeration and Bubbles in the Surf Zone (Nobuhito Mori, Shohachi Kakuno and Daniel T Cox); Freak Wave (Nobuhito Mori); Short-Term Wave Statistics (Akira Kimura); Water-Level Fluctuations: Generation and Prediction of Seiches in Rotterdam Harbor Basins (Martijn P C de Jong and Jurjen A Battjes); Seiches and Harbor Oscillations (Alexander B Rabinovich); Finite Difference Model for Practical Simulation of Distant Tsunamis (Sung Bum Yoon); Coastal Structures: Tsunami-Induced Forces on Structures ( Ioan Nistor, Dan Palermo, Younes Nouri, Tad S Murty and Murat Saatcioglu); Nonconventional Wave Damping Structures (Hocine Oumeraci); Wave Interaction with Breakwaters Including Perforated Walls (Kyung-Duck Suh); Prediction of Overtopping (Jentsje van der Meer, Tim Pullen, William Allsop, Tom Bruce, Holger Schttrumpf and Andreas Kortenhaus); Wave Run-Up and Wave Overtopping at Armored Rubble Slopes and Mounds (Holger Schttrumpf, Jentsje van der Meer, Andreas Kortenhaus, Tom Bruce and Leopoldo Franco ); Wave Overtopping at Vertical and Steep Structures (Tom Bruce, Jentsje van der Meer, Tim Pullen and W Allsop); Surf Parameters for the Design of Coastal Structures (Dong Hoon Yoo); Development of Caisson Breakwater Design Based on Failure Experiences (Shigeo Takahashi); Design of Alternative Revetments ( Krystian W Pilarczyk ); Remarks on Coastal Stabilization and Alternative Solutions (Krystian Pilarczyk); Geotextile Sand Containers for Shore Protection (Hocine Oumeraci and Juan Recio); Low Crested Breakwaters (Alberto Lamberti and Barbara Zanuttigh ); Hydrodynamic Behavior of Net Cages in the Open Sea ( Yu-Cheng Li ); Offshore Structures: State of Offshore Structure Development and Design Challenges (Subrata Chakrabarti); Ports and Harbors: Computer Modeling for Harbor Planning and Design (Jiin-Jen Lee and Xiuying Xing); Prediction of Squat for Underkeel Clearance ( Michael J Briggs, Marc Vantorre, Klemens Uliczka and Pierre Debaillon); Coastal Sediment Processes: Wave-Induced Resuspension of Fine Sediment (Mamta Jain and Ashish J Mehta); Suspended Sand and Bedload Transport on Beaches (Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Andres Payo and Bradley D Johnson); Headland-Bay Beaches for Recreation and Shore Protection (John Rong-Chung Hsu, Melissa Meng-Jiuan Yu, Fang-Chun Lee and Richard Silvester); Beach Nourishment (Robert G Dean and Julie D Rosati); Engineering of Tidal Inlets and Morphologic Consequences (Nicholas C Kraus); Environmental Problems: Water and Nutrients Flow in the Enclosed Bays (Yukio Koibuchi & Masahiko Isobe ); Sustainable Coastal Development: Socioeconomic and Environmental Risk in Coastal and Ocean Engineering ( Miguel A Losada Rodr guez, Asuncion Baquerizo, Miquel Ortega-Sinchez, Juan M Santiago and Elena Sinchez-Badorrey); Utilization of the Coastal Area ( Hwung-Hweng Hwung ); Coastal Hazards: Ocean Wave Climates: Trends and Variations Due to Earth''s Changing Climate (Paul D Komar, Jonathan C Allan and Peter Ruggiero); Sea Level Rise: Major Implications to Coastal Engineering and Coastal Management (Lesley Ewing); Sea Level Rise and Coastal Erosion (Marcel J F Stive, Roshanka Ranasinghe and Peter J Cowell); Coastal Flooding: Analysis and Assessment of Risk (Panayotis Prinos and Panagiota Galiatsatou); Physical Modeling: Physical Modeling of Tsunami Waves (Michael J Briggs, Harry Yeh and Daniel T Cox); Laboratory Simulation of Waves (Etienne P D Mansard and Michael D Miles); Coastal Engineering Practice and Education: Perspective on Coastal Engineering Practice and Education ( J William Kamphuis ). Readership: Graduate students, researchers and professionals in coastal and ocean engineering, oceanography and meteorology."

    • Nature

The Wave

In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
Author: Susan Casey
Publisher: Anchor
ISBN: 0767928857
Category: Nature
Page: 408
View: 2248
Traces the recent discovery of physics-defying ocean waves at heights previously thought impossible, describing the efforts of the scientific community to understand the phenomenon, the pursuits of extreme surfers to ride these waves, and the destructivecapabilities of tsunamis.

    • Nature

Estuarine and Coastal Hydrography and Sediment Transport


Author: R. J. Uncles,S. B. Mitchell
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1107040981
Category: Nature
Page: 366
View: 7587
A practical guide to the latest techniques to measure sediments, seabed, water and transport mechanisms in estuaries and coastal waters. Covering a broad range of topics, enough background is included to explain how each technology functions. A review of recent fieldwork experiments demonstrates how modern methods apply in real-life scenarios.

    • Science

Environmental Oceanography


Author: Tom Beer
Publisher: CRC Press
ISBN: 1351450344
Category: Science
Page: 402
View: 8763
The second edition of Environmental Oceanography is the first textbook to link the needs of the coastal oceanographer and the environmental practitioner. The ever-increasing human impact on the environment, and particularly on the coastal zone, has led governments to carefully examine the environmental implications of development proposals. This book provides the background needed to undertake coastal oceanographic investigations and sets them in context by incorporating case studies and sample problems based on the author's experience as an environmental consultant.

    • Science

Biology: How Life Works


Author: James Morris,Daniel Hartl,Andrew Knoll,Robert Lue,Melissa Michael,Andrew Berry,Andrew Biewener,Brian Farrell,N. Michele Holbrook
Publisher: Macmillan Higher Education
ISBN: 1319079040
Category: Science
Page: 800
View: 5199
Biology: How Life Works was written in response to recent and exciting changes in biology, education, and technology with the goal of helping students to think like biologists. The text, visual program, and assessments were developed together to provide students with the best resources to gain an understanding of modern biology. Content is selected carefully, is integrated to illustrate the connections between concepts, and follows six themes that are crucial to biology: the scientific method, chemical and physical processes, cells, evolution, ecological interactions, and human impact. The second edition continues this approach, but includes expanded coverage of ecology, new in-class activities to assist instructors in active teaching, new pedagogical support for visual synthesis maps, and expanded and improved assessment.

    • Science

Estuarine Ecohydrology

An Introduction
Author: Eric Wolanski,Michael Elliott
Publisher: Elsevier
ISBN: 0444634142
Category: Science
Page: 322
View: 1334
Estuarine Ecohydrology, Second Edition, provides an ecohydrology viewpoint of an estuary as an ecosystem by focusing on its principal components, the river, the estuarine waters, the sediment, the nutrients, the wetlands, the oceanic influence, and the aquatic food web, as well as models of the health of an estuary ecosystem. Estuaries, the intersection of freshwater and coastal ecosystems, exhibit complex physical and biological processes which must be understood in order to sustain and restore them when necessary. This book demonstrates how, based on an understanding of the processes controlling estuarine ecosystem health, one can quantify its ability to cope with human stresses. The theories, models, and real-world solutions presented serve as a toolkit for designing a management plan for the ecologically sustainable development of estuaries. Provides a sound knowledge of the physical functioning of an estuary, a critical component of understanding its ecological functioning Ideal reference for those interested in marine biology, oceanography, coastal management, and sustainable development Describes the essentials behind conceptual and numerical models of the health of an estuary ecosystem and how to use these models to quantify both human impacts and the value of remediation and management measures Chapters are written in an accessible way that encourages collaboration between aquatic, marine, and wetland biologists, ecologists, oceanographers, geologists, geomorphologists, chemists, and ecosystem modelers Covers the physical, chemical, and biological elements of estuary environments, indicating that the essence of an estuary’s functioning lies in its connectivity with the adjacent catchment and the marine/coastal system

    • History

Wave of Destruction

The Stories of Four Families and History's Deadliest Tsunami
Author: Erich Krauss
Publisher: Rodale
ISBN: 9781594863783
Category: History
Page: 244
View: 6118
Four Southeast Asia tsunami survival stories offer insight into the experiences of people who heroically endured devastating odds in their determination to stay alive, recounting their painful losses of families, friends, and homes and their subsequent efforts to rebuild. 50,000 first printing.

    • Science

Ocean Seismo-Acoustics

Low-Frequency Underwater Acoustics
Author: T. Akal,J.M. Berkson
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN: 1461322014
Category: Science
Page: 915
View: 5260
Seafloor investigation has long been a feature of not only seismology but also of acoustics. Indeed it was acoustics that produced depth sounders, giving us the first capability of producing both global and local maps of the seafloor. Subsequently, better instrumentation and techniques led to a clearer, more quantitative picture of the seabed itself, which stimulated new hypotheses such as seafloor spreading through the availability of more reliable data on sediment thickness over ocean basins and other bottom features. Geologists and geophysicists have used both acoustic and seismic methods to study the seabed by considering the propagation of signals arising from both natural seismic events and man-made impulsive sources. Although significant advances have been made in instrumentation, such as long towed geophysical arrays, ai r guns and ocean bot tom seismometers, the pic ture of the seafloor is still far from complete. Underwater acoustics concerns itself today with the phenomena of propagation and noise at frequencies and ranges that require an understanding of acoustic interaction at both of its boundaries, the sea surface and seafloor, over depths ranging from tens to thousands of meters. Much of the earlier higher frequency (>1 kHz) work included the characterization of the seafloor in regimes of reflection coefficients which were empirically derived from surveys. The results of these studies met with only limited success, confined as they were to those areas where survey data existed and lacking a physical understanding of the processes of reflection and scattering.

    • Science

An Introduction to Ocean Turbulence


Author: S. A. Thorpe
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 1139467816
Category: Science
Page: N.A
View: 1216
This textbook provides an introduction to turbulent motion occurring naturally in the ocean on scales ranging from millimetres to hundreds of kilometres. It describes turbulence in the mixed boundary layers at the sea surface and seabed, turbulent motion in the density-stratified water between, and the energy sources that support and sustain ocean mixing. Little prior knowledge of physical oceanography is assumed. The text is supported by numerous figures, extensive further reading lists, and more than 50 exercises that are graded in difficulty. Detailed solutions to the exercises are available to instructors online at www.cambridge.org/9780521859486. This textbook is intended for undergraduate courses in physical oceanography, and all students interested in multidisciplinary aspects of how the ocean works, from the shoreline to the deep abyssal plains. It also forms a useful lead-in to the author's more advanced graduate textbook, The Turbulent Ocean (Cambridge University Press, 2005).

    • Science

Dynamics of Marine Ecosystems

Biological-Physical Interactions in the Oceans
Author: K. H. Mann,John R. N. Lazier
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons
ISBN: 1118687914
Category: Science
Page: 512
View: 4552
The new edition of this widely respected text provides comprehensive and up-to-date coverage of the effects of biological–physical interactions in the oceans from the microscopic to the global scale. considers the influence of physical forcing on biological processes in a wide range of marine habitats including coastal estuaries, shelf-break fronts, major ocean gyres, coral reefs, coastal upwelling areas, and the equatorial upwelling system investigates recent significant developments in this rapidly advancing field includes new research suggesting that long-term variability in the global atmospheric circulation affects the circulation of ocean basins, which in turn brings about major changes in fish stocks. This discovery opens up the exciting possibility of being able to predict major changes in global fish stocks written in an accessible, lucid style, this textbook is essential reading for upper-level undergraduates and graduate students studying marine ecology and biological oceanography

    • Social Science

Coastal Management in Australia


Author: Brian Caton
Publisher: University of Adelaide Press
ISBN: 0980723035
Category: Social Science
Page: 342
View: 4053
"The coast is one of our most valuable assets but how is it being treated and what is being done to look after it? Coastal Management in Australia is the first book to provide a comprehensive overview of this important subject. Interesting case studies are used to illustrate human impact on coastal processes as well as demonstrating the global significance of the coast and the international imperative to manage it properly. Coastal Management in Australia introduces the background to the various coastal management systems operating in Australia and illustrates these with 'real world' examples from the different states and territories. Since this book was first published yet another parliamentary inquiry has been added to some 30 years of national inquiries into coastal management, with further calls for national co-ordination. In addition, the Australian government has focused attention on the potential risks of climate change for the Australian coast. Both authors have national and international coastal expertise; significant academic teaching experience in coastal processes and coastal management; coastal planning and policy skills; and have extensive government expertise in coastal management"--Publisher's description.